Tag Archives: cleaning

Snap to Vent by Zigguraut

Check It Out: Snap-to-Vent Dryer Connectors

- posted by Jerica Parker

What is the most frustrating thing about installing your dryer? For me, it’s all the hoses and attachments, and then, getting them to fit in the laundry room without crushing them.

Even more frustrating is how awkward it is to try to lean over your dryer with the hose clamp and screwdriver to install or clean the ventilation hose.

Luckily for you, and for me, Ziggurat Products came up with a solution to our problem. Snap-to-Vent connectors make this job quick and easy!

How the Snap-to-Vent system Works

When pushing your dryer back against the wall, sometimes the hose can be crushed and this prevents necessary ventilation. Both Snap-to-Vent’s products

The best part about Ziggurat Products company is that it’s local, right here in Ogden, Utah! Check out the Snap-to-Vent 90-Degree  and Snap-to-Vent Straight  connections on SmithandEdwards.com.

 

If your Clothes Dryer vents straight to the duct: Straight Connector

If your dryer duct and wall duct are relatively close together, you will want the Snap-to-Vent Straight design connector. This is an easy connection for installing your dryer, and if you ever need to take it back apart for maintenance or cleaning. Simply pre-connect Snap-to-Vent Straight before you go behind your dryer for installation. Place the snap connector over dryer hose with tines on the inside of the hose. Take the straight and place it so that the tines push against the hose holding the connector tight to the dryer hose. Take the seal ring and either put it around the duct or in the straight and press into the duct until it creates an air tight seal. Easy enough!

If your Clothes Dryer hose has to vent on another wall, use the 90° Elbow

The Snap-to-Vent 90-degree Elbow connection helps to avoid smashing your hose by connecting the hose at a 90-degree angle to your dryer. It comes with easy instructions: Pre-assemble the hose to the snap connector and the snap connector into the 90-degree elbow and snap together. Take the seal ring and pre install onto dryer or wall duct and press the 90 elbow into the dryer duct or wall duct. And voila! The elbow connector can push right up against the wall and still keep your hose protected and working how it should.

 

Having a clean and clear vent reduces the risk of fires and improves the efficiency of your dryer. With no tools necessary and less time and confusion during installation, how could you not love Snap-to-Vent!

John's leaf blower tips for spring troubleshooting

John’s 4 Stihl Leaf Blower Tips

- posted by Jerica Parker

After a long, cold winter, it’s time to clean up. Planting new flowers, mowing the lawn – all the little things to make your yard beautiful again. It’s the time of year to break out all our lawn care equipment again.

As people are preparing for the summer, we often get questions about troubles getting all the tools tools to start up after long, cold winter storage.

Tool Troubleshooting: 4 Leaf Blower Tips

Many people are ready to use their gas powered leaf blowers, but it can be hard to get them started after winter. John, part of our team in the Lawn & Garden department, has thought of 4 possible solutions for this:

  1. Stale fuel. Fuel doesn’t last forever. If it doesn’t get used, it can get old and stop functioning how it’s supposed to. Try refilling with clean, fresh fuel. Click here to check out the best EPA-compliant fuel cans we’ve found.
    Try adding fresh fuel to your blower!
  2. Spark plugs. This is a very common solution for blowers not starting. Check your spark plugs, and if any of them have build-up, it’s time for a replacement.
    Check your spark plugs on your leaf blower!
  3. Air filter. Check that your air filter is clean and not plugged up. If not, you know it’s time for a change.
    Check your leaf blower's air filter
  4. Fuel filter. Not as common, but equally a potential solution. Check that your fuel filter isn’t clogged up. If that’s the case, replace it with a new filter.
    Check that your leaf blower's fuel filter isn't clogged!

Note: Not all models of Stihl Gas Powered Leaf Blowers are the same. Check for your model manual by clicking here.

John and the Stihl leaf blowers at Smith & Edwards

Thanks for the leaf blower tips, John!

Thanks John! These are his best tips, and if these don’t work, you can consult your blower model’s manual for more advice here at stihlusa.com.

Photos by Rose Marion.

Make your own DIY Bucket Washing Machine with Smith & Edwards - watch Melissa's video!

How to Make your own Laundry Bucket Washer (video)

- posted by Rose Marion

Pig muck-covered overalls? Horse leg wraps? Greasy shop rags? There’s no way those are going in the nice front-loading washing machine.

Here’s a neat way to turn 5-gallon buckets into a shop washing machine that keeps the mucky things out of the clothing laundry. We saw this on Pinterest and HAD to try it out!

Plus, you can also keep this on hand for emergencies: the Zombie Apocalypse or when the power goes out.

Thanks to Melissa in our Housewares department for showing us how to do it, and Marty for cleaning the leg boots!

Tip: Did you just buy a new pair of dark-wash denim jeans? Add a cup of vinegar and don’t add soap. Then, add your new jeans and let them sit overnight. This will help set the dye, and you won’t get as much indigo rub-off on the rest of your laundry!

Make your own DIY Laundry Bucket at Home

You’ll need these supplies:

Directions:

  1. Drill holes in one of the buckets, both the bottom and 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up the sides.
  2. Drill a hole in the lid with a 2″ hole saw. Then, insert the bushing.
  3. Now drill 1/2″ holes in the rubber plunger.
    You’re done!
Smith & Edwards answers your questions! Q&A with S&E

Q&A: Why use a Gun Vise?

- posted by Rose Marion

You’ve got questions, we’ve got answers! Send us your question to help@smithandedwards.com. We’ve got good advice, bad advice, & years of experience with all kinds of crazy outdoors activities. Send us your question, you just might get something fun or helpful back!

Question:

I saw your post on how to clean a rifle. I’ve never used a Gun Vise to clean my rifle… does it make any real difference? -Major Paul

Answer:

You don’t have to use a gun vise to clean your rifle. But it’s a good idea to have one, or a bipod, so your rifle is secured and the stroke of the cleaning rod is consistent with the plane of your bore.
How to clean your rifle - Smith and Edwards Demo

A lot of people also use a bore guide so that when you clean from breech to muzzle, you don’t scrape your crown on the muzzle end. You don’t really want the cleaning rod to contact the crown. A vise will help you clean consistently without scraping the sides. Also, that keeps the mess in one area.

Mike Vause, Smith & EdwardsThanks for asking!
– Mike Vause

Smith & Edwards Gun Counter

How to Clean your Saddle

How to Clean a Western Saddle

- posted by Rose Marion

It’s so easy to put your saddle on the stand and walk away when snow starts to fly in the fall. But that leaves a lot of dust & residue on your saddle so when you take it out in the spring, it’s WORK lookin’ you right in the face!

When you’ve put that much into a good Western saddle, you want to make sure your saddle stays clean and conditioned! Marty Thompson, our Western Saddlery guy, will take you through the most important parts of cleaning a saddle, whether you’re putting it away or taking it out in the spring.

Plus, if you have leather cowboy boots, scabbards, or headstalls that need a good cleaning, you can use these same steps to condition your leather.

How to Clean a Saddle Q & A

How to Clean a Western Saddle…. Before & After

Here’s a customer’s saddle. For some reason they were happy to volunteer when we asked around who wanted their saddle cleaned for free!

Cleaning a Western Saddle

This saddle has some beautiful tooling and design, but it’s been buried deep under dirt & muck. Here’s what it’s going to look like when we’re done:

Cleaned Leather Saddle

Leather Care Products you want to use

Everyone has their own preferences. Marty’s not only sold tack for 20 years here at Smith & Edwards – he does leatherworking & builds saddles in his spare time. So here’s what he recommends, based on his experience.

Saddle Cleaning Products

There are lots of products for cleaning your saddle, from Fiebing’s, Skidmore’s, and Ray Holes. A wool pad or scrap of sheepskin will help you gently rub the leather cleaner & conditioner into your saddle & gear without scratching.

Before Marty started with products, he took a bristle brush to the saddle to get off most of the dirt before coming in with the liquid. An air compressor works good too, if you have one – especially under the skirts and jockeys!

Bristle Brush for cleaning Western tack

If you have a REALLY dirty piece of leather, you can use some dish soap on it. Then, you need to come back and condition it afterwards.

Marty likes using Fiebing’s Liquid Saddle Soap. This spray seems to cover better than paste, and you get less residue in the cracks of the leather. You can use a paste with a wet cloth, but if the paste gets too thick it might be hard to work out of your leather’s creases and details.

Fiebing's Saddle Soap

The Liquid Saddle Soap cleans it out really well, and it also lightly conditions it at the same time. Plus, it’s great to be able to spray in the spots you want.

Spraying Dusty Saddle

That first spray on the dusty leather is pretty satisfying…

If a saddle has a lot drier feel to it after going over it with saddle soap, you could go over it with some neatsfoot oil to condition it deeper.

A soft cotton cloth is good to use for rubbing the liquid into the saddle. You can also use a soft sponge or a piece of sheepskin. You want something that is soft and won’t scratch the leather, and also holds the cleaner and conditioner well.

Sheepskin Pad for cleaning Leather

If you have an older saddle, or maybe a saddle that hasn’t seen enough care, the Skidmore’s Leather Cream is a great way to deeply condition your leather.

Skidmore's Leather Cream

Skidmore’s Leather Cream

You don’t have to wear gloves. Marty likes to wear gloves because that way he’s not running to the sink to get oil off his hands!

Parts of the Saddle to Clean

You want to clean your leather and get all the sand, dust, and dirt out of there. That helps your leather last longer and brings the beauty back into that leather.

It’s really important to do more than a surface clean when you care for you saddle.

When you’ve got sand and dust trapped in the fenders and parts of the saddle, it acts like sandpaper and wears out the leather.

Make sure and clean your saddle fenders and the jockey

You want to get in the fenders, the saddle strings, stirrup leathers.

Cleaning Saddle Strings with Fiebings Saddle Soap

And the cinch and back billet are really going to want cleaning.

Dusty mohair cinch

Make sure and finger-clean all the hair, sticks, and dirt out of your cinch.

Make sure and get your rosettes and conchos shined up while you’re at it!

Cantle, before and after

Halfway through! Marty’s cleaned the left side of the saddle, and he’s only brushed the right side so far.

If your silver conchos are really tarnished, go ahead and take them off your saddle, then take some silver polish to them. That’s because some silver polishes can turn your leather white, so you want to be sure and take the silver off the leather before you introduce the chemicals.

A lot of dirt and hair will build up where the stirrup hangs, so scrape and break up the dirt. You can scrape off the mud with a pocketknife on your stirrup leathers, and then you’ll be able to get the conditioner in the leather.

Scraping the Stirrup Leathers off

You’re not digging into the leather with your blade – just prying off the caked dirt.

If you have a rough-out or suede seat, you’ll want to use Bickmore’s Bick 4 instead of an oily conditioner, so the oil doesn’t come out on the seat of your pants! This type of product is also good for leather couches and car seats.

What about cleaning Rawhide?

If you have some nice rawhide-covered stirrups, a rawhide bosal, or rawhide reins like these romal reins, Marty recommends Ray Hole’s Rawhide Cream (click to shop).

Dusty Rawhide ReinsRay Holes Rawhide Cream at Smith & Edwards

 Same idea on cleaning rawhide: brush off any dust & dirt, then take a piece of sheepskin and work the rawhide cream into your gear.

Waterproofing Leather

Skidmore's Beeswax Waterproofing

Skidmore’s Beeswax Waterproofing

Ray Holes’ Saddle Butter conditions the leather well, AND has a waterproofing component in it. Ray Holes also makes Chap Wax, which is specifically designed for waterproofing. Skidmore’s also makes a waterproofing from beeswax. Each of these penetrates into the leather well and helps the moisture bead up and roll off instead of soaking into your saddle!

How do you waterproof your leather? Same process: clean your leather off with a brush and then a conditioner. Then, put on a coat of waterproofing.

Make sure and let your saddle dry on its own, at room temperature – this may take a half hour.

Finishing touches

To finish your leather, put a coat of Tan-Kote on your gear.

Tan-Kote, by Fiebing’s, gives your leather a bit of shine and also helps repel dust and dirt. Plus, it’s a softer product with a water base, that won’t cause your leather to crack.

After

Shiny conchos and leather on your freshly-cleaned saddle!

Beautiful!

Get more tips like this in your email!

Enter your email address & Marty will send you more tack tips plus let you know when he puts his Western tack & gear on sale.













Get the Basics with this Leather Care Kit

Marty put this kit together so you can get everything you need in 1 place to clean and waterproof your leather. Skidmore’s leather products are made in the USA – which we love – and they’ll work great on your saddle & tack.

Clean your saddle with Marty's leather care kit!Plus, you save money by buying these products in the kit – AND you get a sheepskin piece to work it in! We don’t sell these sheepskin scraps on the website, so Marty’s kit is the only way for you to get your hands on one of these! Click here to check it out.

How do you care for YOUR saddle & gear? Let us know!

How to clean your rifle - Smith and Edwards Demo

How to Clean your Rifle

- posted by Rose Marion

Did you get a gun for Christmas? Looking to get a good deal at our Gun Auction? Or maybe you’re a hunter who needs extreme accuracy for shooting an elk 350 yards away.

Did you know?
You can see part of our hunting department on SmithandEdwards.com! (click here) We’ve got a selection of our most popular hunting and range accessories for you online. There’s way more in-store!

Eric from Smith and Edwards demonstrating how to clean your gun

You may know how to keep your gun dry and safe, you also want to know how to clean your rifle to keep it accurate and firing properly. Every gun needs a good cleaning to keep it functioning the way you need it to in an emergency, on a hunting trip, or just going out to the range for practice.

Eric Halter from our Gun Counter will walk you through the basics of cleaning your handgun so you can keep yours in great condition.

Eric knows how to keep a gun clean and firing properly because it’s what he does. When he’s not at Smith & Edwards, Eric spends his time as a gunsmith – something of a family trade, he’s had over 30 years of experience gunsmithing.

Every time your gun is fired, carbon and copper residue gets deposited and builds up in your bore. A boresnake is a fast way to clean out that residue, and for a deep cleaning after a hunting trip or a session at the range, you can use brushes and patches along with cleaners to restore your gun to pristine condition.

How to clean your gun in the field

A field cleaning is a basic cleaning to get the residue out of your rifle while you’re out in the field. So if you’re not in a place where you can set out all your supplies like your gun vise and cleaning rod, and take the time to give your gun a good cleaning, all you need is your boresnake to do a field clean.
Boresnakes for cleaning your gun

If there’s rain and you’ve gotten water down your bore, if you’re in inclement weather, or you’re in a harsh, dusty, and dirty environment, this is the #1 method to get your rifle back in shape from breech to muzzle.

  1. Take your rifle, making sure it’s unloaded, and remove the bolt.
  2. Drop the weighted end of an oiled boresnake down the barrel and pull through the bore, out the muzzle.
    Dropping the boresnake in the borePulling the boresnake down the muzzle
  3. Do that 2-3 times, and you’re good to go.

Gun Cleaning Tip:
Before you go on your trip, lay your boresnake on your bench and wet the first 1/3 of the bore with a bore cleaner like Hoppe’s #9.
Put bore cleaner on the first third of your bore to prep for field cleaning

Then coil it up and put it in a ziploc bag.

Coiled boresnake

Now when you’re out in the field to do a field cleaning, you pull out your ziploc bag, take out your boresnake, and pull that through your rifle and clean out the residue.
Nylon bristles of a boresnake

The brass bristles in the boresnake will help give your gun a good brushing.

When you get home from your trip, you’ll still want to give your gun a good cleaning. A quick & easy field cleaning like this will help you in the field to get the majority of the carbon out, keeping it lubricated and water-resistant, but it won’t take out the heavy copper deposits or carbon deposits like a good deep-cleaning at home.

So Eric’s going to show us how to give a long gun the good cleaning it needs. You can follow the same steps on a shotgun or pistol.

How to clean your gun at home

We should mention that your first step ought to be to read your owner’s manual. This will help you see exactly how to disassemble your gun and clean it. Get familiar with your weapon and how to take care of it.

OK, once you get home from the field or the range, set aside a half-hour to give your gun the TLC it deserves.

You’ll need: your gun, a gun vise (and a counter or bench to set it on), a cleaning rod with a brush and a jag attachment, cleaning solution, lubricant, flannel patches, and a shop cloth.

  1. Make sure your gun is unloaded, and then remove the bolt. Rest your gun in a vise.
  2. Take your bore brush and screw it onto your cleaning rod. Dip your brush into your solvent (we use Hoppe’s #9 Copper Solvent).
    Bronze bore brush on your cleaning rod
  3. Push the brush and rod through the bore through the end. Do about 20-25 strokes back and forth, then take it out and set your cleaning rod to the side.
    Bronze bore brush cleaning the bore
  4. Let it set for about 5-10 minutes for the chemical reaction. Let the bore cleaner work on the copper fouling and the carbon deposits.
  5. Take your patch jag and screw it onto your cleaning rod. Take a flannel patch and pull a corner halfway through the jag, and fold it over the end.Placing a flannel patch in the jag to clean your gun.Then, take the patch and run it down through to clean out the dirt in the bore.
    Placing flannel patch in bore on cleaning rodFlannel patch coming out the muzzleDirty patch from cleaning this gun
  6. Repeat brushing with solvent as needed.
  7. Keep running fresh patches down through the bore til they come out clean.
    Dirty patches from cleaning the rifle
    Now it’s time to lubricate the bore.
  8. Drop 8-10 drops of oil onto a patch and run it down your bore.
    Dropping gun oil onto flannel patches to clean your gun
    This is a preservative, so that humidity and moisture won’t get in there and rust the bore.
  9. Take a dry patch and run it down the bore to remove any excess lubricant or cleaning oils that are in the bore.
  10. Take one of your patches that had cleaner on it and clean your bolt. Then, lightly oil the bolt.
    Reuse a patch to clean your rifle bolt
  11. When you’re done, take a good clean shop rag and wipe down your gun so it’s clean and dry, removing any oils, dust, and dirt.
    Wipe your rifle down with a clean shop ragPut the bolt back in the rifle.
    Place the bolt back in your clean rifle

And you’re all done!

That's a clean rifle! - Eric at Smith & Edwards

These steps are identical for handguns, revolvers, and shotguns. The only difference with a handgun is you’d use a shorter cleaning rod.

Handguns typically don’t get cleaned as often as they should, so for best performance try to do it after every trip or every other trip to the range. Just use the same cleaners and process to get rid of the copper and carbon residue in the barrel.

How often should you clean your gun?

You know your gun best. Eric recommends you do a good cleaning like that every other time you shoot. You should run a boresnake through it after every shooting session.

If your goal is extreme accuracy, you’ll want to clean after every shooting session. Your rifle can shoot through a certain amount of fouling without a problem, but after anywhere from 30-100 rounds, you’ve got fouling in there that will affect your accuracy. If you’re out looking for an elk across a canyon or really needing to hit a target, you’ll want your barrel clean.

If you’re a waterfowl hunter, you’re out in harsh environments – rain, cold, sleet, snow, mud – and your shotguns really take a beating. It’s vitally important to clean your shotgun thoroughly after every usage – making sure to oil it well to keep it water-resistant.

If you’ve got a handgun for home defense, even if you don’t shoot it during the year, the preservative oils can evaporate over time. So while you don’t need to clean it, because you haven’t fired it, you do want to re-oil your home defense firearm once a year – whether it’s a rifle, pistol, or shotgun.

What gun cleaning supplies we recommend

There are a lot of companies that make gun cleaning supplies. Hoppe’s is a great company that has brushes and cleaners, and Outers and Gunslick make great cleaners too. You can also get kits from gun manufacturers, such as Winchester and Remington.

All these are pretty affordable, you’re looking to spend about $20-40 on a kit.

Eric picked out some kits - these are just a few of the dozen or so gun cleaning kits we have here in the store. The small one is a universal handgun cleaning kit.

Eric picked out some kits – these are just a few of the dozen or so gun cleaning kits we have here in the store. The small one is a universal handgun cleaning kit.

We’ve also got Tipton’s Best Gun Vise $99.99 – this vise can adjust to fit rifles, compact pistols, and everything in between. You can find all these gun care products and much more in our Sporting Goods department here at Smith & Edwards.

Tipton Best Gun Vise

Bore snake – a must-have.

Bore Snake for cleaning your Gun Barrel

Bronze brush and a Slotted Jag – they come in a huge range of sizes, so get the one that fits your bore so you don’t have to scrub as much.

Bore Brush and Jag by Hoppe's

We’ve got tons of flannel patches, a bag will run you about $5.

Hoppe's Gun Cleaners

Orange-label  Hoppe’s #9 Gun Bore Cleaner: your standard, all-purpose cleaning solution.

Brown-label Hoppe’s #9 Copper Remover is a copper solvent that will dissolve the copper out of your bore. You’ll know it’s working when your patch comes out with a turquoise-green tint to it. Keep running the patches down til they don’t have that blue tint on the patch.

This copper remover is what you’ll want to use frequently if you’re an extreme accuracy shooter or into long-range shooting, to get the pristine bore you need. If you’re familiar with your rifle’s trajectory and exterior ballistics, you don’t want to waste that knowledge by having a dirty rifle and not being able to count on the bullet’s trajectory.

Hoppe’s lubricating oil is a great choice for keeping your bore dry and rust-free til you use it again. It doesn’t have much of an odor at all. Break-Free CLP is another good choice.

Cleaning rod: Pretty basic, you’ll want either a rifle cleaning rod or a handgun-size cleaning rod. This particular one has a sliding piece of brass that fits on the rear of the action, so the rod stays aligned in the center of the bore, so you get a good clean, and faster.

Rifle Cleaning Rod with Brass Alignment disc

Your turn

How do you clean your handgun or rifle? What are your tips & tricks? Leave a comment below and let us know.

Dyson Animal Complete vacuum meets confetti at Smith and Edwards

Dyson Vacuum Demo: Animal Complete DC41

- posted by Rose Marion

If you came in the store today, between 11:00-3:00, you could’ve gotten a great deal on Dyson Vacuums! We had special pricing on Dyson vacuums and you could even try out a Dyson yourself at our Dyson vacuum demo.

Want to hear about all our in-store demos and giveaway? LIKE us on Facebook, and sign up for In-Store Offers for our best deals at our store in Ogden, Utah!

Today we had Mike and Eugene from Dyson drop by Smith & Edwards to demonstrate the DC41 Animal Complete vacuum. This is a beast!

Plus, not only could you try the vacuum out, vacuuming up confetti, metal shavings, dust, and fluff, but we also had great deals on Dysons during the demo – saving you $200 or more on certain models!

Dyson DC41 Animal Complete Vacuum available at Smith & Edwards

Dyson vacuums are amazing because they never lose suction! Just watch.

Uh oh….

Time to break out the confetti...

Someone’s breaking out the confetti…!

By the way, check out the angle Mike’s getting thanks to the Dyson ball –

Dyson Animal Complete vacuum working on confetti

Vacuuming up the confetti

Works on carpet…

Vacuuming confetti on hard surfaces with DC41

Then because of the unique Dyson active base plate, you can switch to vacuuming on hard surfaces like tile without losing suction.

The Dyson active base plate on this vacuum self-adjusts to carpet and hard surfaces, so you won’t lose suction as you vacuum across your home.

Confetti in Dyson canister at Smith and Edwards

Confetti in the Dyson DC41 canister

Excellent for Allergies and Pets

The Dyson Animal Complete is simple – there are no bags or filters to replace, and you can empty the canister in just a push of a button.

And if someone in your family has allergies – or you just have a lot of pets to clean up after – you’ll love how many allergen particles, pollen, and dust Dyson vacuums can capture. Plus, your Dyson vacuum will retain the dust it sucks up too, instead of venting it back into your rooms!

The Attachments Really Make this Vacuum Stand Out

The Animal Complete DC41, the model Mike demonstrated, comes with a bunch of cool attachments in a case.

DC41 Dyson Animal Complete Vacuum comes with several attachments in a nice bag.If you or your family have long hair (like me) or lots of pets, you know the chore of cutting hair & fur out of the vacuum base. But check out this extension – it won’t get clogged:

Tangle Free Hair Tool on Dyson Animal Complete

This tangle-free hair tool rotates in opposite directions, so instead of getting stuck, hair and string go…

Hair didn't get tangled in the Dyson brush

…directly into the canister!

 

The wand extends to 16 feet, so you can clean your ceiling fans with your feet on the ground – no chairs or stools to climb on to dust your fans.

Use the angle brush to clean your ceiling fans! Demo'd at Smith and Edwards

Use the angle brush to clean your ceiling fans!

Dust with your Dyson vacuum head

Use this extension to dust surfaces.

Dyson DC41 Animal Complete Crevice Tool

Crevice Tool

 

Dyson Animal Complete Vacuum's great internal filter for lifetime use

Great internal filter for lifetime use.

Like us, Dyson will give you great customer support

And one more thing about Dyson vacuums: They put a 1-800 number on the vacuum handle, and you can call about anything – whether your vacuum’s working great or needs some help. They’ll recommend the attachments you should use and how to best clean your home’s carpet and floors.

Plus, when you register your new vacuum, you can give them your email address and they’ll send you reminders on when to rinse your filter (the recommendation is to wash your filter every 3 months).

Dyson's number is on the vaccum handle.

Dyson’s 1-800 help number is on the vaccum handle.

 

Thanks Mike and Eugene for coming by and showing us the Dyson Animal Complete DC41! We’ve got a great selection of Dyson vacuums here for you to check out at Smith & Edwards. Come on out and see us just off I-15 at exit 351 and take home a new vacuum today.